Finally, the beast that is Mt Kilimanjaro (Mt Kili) lay before us. All 5895m of it! Quite a daunting proposition really, however, we’d been looking forward to it for a couple of months now and it had to be done!
There are about 7 routes you can take to climb Mt Kili. We decided on the Marangu Route. Mainly because this is the only route that has little lodges along the trail and with the wet season now upon us, the idea of camping out in freezing temperatures combined with pouring rain did not really appeal.
Only 20 hrs of climbing...that's not too bad!!
Initially we had decided on taking six days to complete the climb, but after meeting 4 Chinese girls who had climbed it in 5 days (even though only 2 of them made the summit), we decided that it was obviously possible to complete the climb in 5, so we were not going to be upstaged! The old ego versus common sense argument, where for some reason ego seems to win every time!
Commencing at approximately 1800m, the increase in altitude is over 4000m. Although the conditions on the climb can often be extremely testing, it is the altitude sickness that is usually the killer on Mt Kili.
The seemingly never ending path to the summit!
The first 3 days were extremely comfortable. Rising on average 1000m in altitude per day, and trekking for up to 20kms or 5 ½ hrs was barely noticed given it felt like almost a treat to be traversing across such varied landscape that started with a rainforest, rose into the moor lands, then up to the more barren and rocky desert. And also the fact that we honestly thought it was going to be tougher.
Aurelie standing above the clouds at the end of day 2 (approx 3,700m)
We arrived at Kibo Huts (4,700m) or base camp in extremely good shape and feeling very confident, maybe too confident, that the remaining 1200m scramble to the summit would be taken in our stride.
After arriving at base camp at about 2pm in the afternoon, we had a couple of hours to relax, had dinner at about 6pm, a couple of hours sleep, then we were woken at 11pm to commence to trek to the summit at midnight. This was where the fun commenced!
Having heard some nasty stories about icy, freezing temperatures, we layered up. 10 or 11 layers of thermals and jackets, scarves, beanies, balaclavas the lot. We walked out like the Michelin man, determined not to be affected by the midnight chill, but obviously within 10 minutes we were dripping with sweat. Probably not a good thing, having such wet damp layers of clothing on given what lay ahead, but regardless of this, we ploughed on in the ’hope’ that it would get colder!
The first signs of a struggle came at about 5,300m. Tiredness, lack of energy but most of all the altitude was starting to take its toll, especially on Aurelie and Cherie. Shane seemed to be catching flies or doing something along these lines to keep himself interested, but whatever it was, it was working as he certainly wasn’t showing any signs of weariness.
The wall was hit at Gilman’s Point. 5,600m, still pitch black, apparently the point of no return. However the impact of the altitude hit and disillusionment started to sink in and this point was about to be renamed the point of return!
Aurelie felt dizzy, lethargic, her lungs were tied in a knot and she was feeling faint, like she was going to fall at any moment. The unknown and uncomfortable sensations were leading her to feel like she wanted to go back down.
After a barrage of inspiration, and a helping hand from the guide, we ploughed on and surpassed Stella Point at 5800m! With the summit now in sight, we made the scramble up the last kilometre or so, a rise of 100m and reached Uhuru Peak, the summit of Mt Kili, to shouts of exhilaration, well from Shane anyway. Aurelie and Cherie seemed to be in a state of initial shock at what they had just achieved!
Overjoyed at having finally reached Uhuru Peak - the summit of Mt. Kili
Altitude sickness and lethargy however, surprisingly disappeared as soon as the summit was reached. The view from this point with glaciers to the left, and the sun rising out of the clouds on the right over Mawenza mountain was absolutely spectacular. It definitely made all the effort worthwhile and a memory that will remain with us for a long time.
Post mortem was that Aurelie and Cherie were in agreement that this was the toughest mental and physical test that they had to endure. Tougher than any marathon that either of them had completed. Shane was not convinced but was happy to admit that it was certainly not easy…very much an understatement!!
Finally...our two guides and us are exhausted but delighted to have made it!
With Kili out the way, we wasted no time getting a flight to Zanzibar. We had heard that it was paradise and it did not disappoint. We stayed in a place called Nungwi, on the northern tip of the island. With the turquoise waters, incredible under water life, the opportunity to watch the sunset into the ocean on a nightly basis with a soothing bevy or two to celebrate the achievement of the previous week, this really was a perfect way to get over the Kili climb.
Cooling off with a refreshing dip in one of Zanzibars beautiful beaches
By far and away the highlight of the week was taking the chance to swim side by side with pods of dolphins off one of the islands reefs. We were able to touch them we were that close and watching them swim underneath us and bouncing up around us in their natural environment was one of the most surreal experiences we’ve had.
Shane getting up close and personal to a pod of dolphins
After 5 nights in Zanzibar, we said our goodbyes to Cherie who had spent the best part of a month with us.
Now it’s time to move on down into the heart of Africa. First stop is Malawi.
